Page 81 - Slovenci v Himalaji od 1954 do 2013

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S L O V E N I A N S I N T H E H I M A L AYA S F R O M 1 9 5 4 T O 2 0 1 3
Date of summit ascent and summi-
Date, highest point reached (wit-
hout summit), mountaineers
Kyle Dempster (USA), Hayden Kennedy
(USA) and Urban Novak
Kyle Dempster (USA), Hayden Kennedy
(USA) and Urban Novak
Erin Wilson, Urban Novak
Hayden Kennedy (USA) and Urban Novak
Jesse Mease, Urban Novak
New route in E Face
22. 09.: Ice Tooth (6240 m), E piller
13. 10.: Phola Gangchen, reached al-
titude 6600 m
Marko Prezelj, Luka Stražar, Luka Lin-
dič, Nejc Marčič, Martin Žumer
Marko Prezelj, Luka Lindič
On10th July 1977,
(25) disappearedon the slopes ofHiddenPeak (Gasherbrum
I; 8,068m). He and his climbing partner had already decided to return due to the aggravated
weather conditions, butDrago changedhismindand resolved to continue climbingonhis own.
On 15thMay 1979,
Ang Phu
(29), a Sherpa and leader of high-altitude porters for the Yugo-
slavian Alpine Expedition to the Himalaya, which climbed the western ridge of Mt. Everest,
reached the summit together with two Slovenian Alpine climbers. During their descent
down theHornbeinCouloir they had to set up a bivouac in the west face due to poor weather
condition. On 16thMay, as they have already come across their fellow climbers who came to
meet them, Ang Phu suddenly slipped into a precipice. He was found dead on the edge of the
Rongbuk Glacier the next day.
On 24th April 1983,
Nejc Zaplotnik
(31), a top Alpine climber, mountain rescuer and guide
as well as an established author, who, at the time, also acted as the head of the Alpine Club
Kranj (AO Kranj), died in an ice avalanche under the Manaslu Mountain (8,125 m). Ante
Bućan (32), a student of electrical engineering fromSplit, diedwith himunder said avalanche.
The accident happened during a Croatian expedition, slightly above Camp I on the glacier,
approximately 4,400 m high.
On 22nd April 1985, at 9 pm (local time),
Borut Bergant aka Čita
(27), another top Alpine
climber, mountain guide, and rescuer, a machinist fromTržič, died in a similar manner. He
and his companionwere descending fromYalungKang (8,505m, the Kangchenjunga Range,
the western peak of this mighty mountain) after they had climbed it, for the first time from
the north, as members of the Slovenian expedition.