Page 45 - Slovenci v Himalaji od 1954 do 2013

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S L O V E N I A N S I N T H E H I M A L AYA S F R O M 1 9 5 4 T O 2 0 1 3
bing in the Himalayas is not at all favourable
and after two decades this also proved true
for the Slovenians.
Expeditionsorganized inaclassicwaywith
a base camp represented some sort of an in-
termediate step between classic climbs and
modern alpine climbs.The climbs were done
on individual peaks.This styledefinitelymade
some of themost important achievements ha-
ppen as the descending climbers always had
base camps in classical paths available as well
as a well stocked base: Shishapangma 1989,
Kangchengzenda 1991, Api-Nampa-Bobaje
1999, Gyachung Kang 1999 etc.
Some solo climbs caught a lot of attention
(Kumbakarna, Lotse, Daulaghiri, Anapurna,
Gasherbrun 4) as did some alpine climbing
teams (Trango, Bagirati,AmaDablam,Nuptse,
Chomolhari, Charakusa, Bagirati again etc.).
Thefirst climb inthe southernwall ofDaulagiri
in 1999 was the first bigmedia breakthrough
partially because of the climb itself and parti-
ally because it was the very first climb broad-
casted real time on internet. Very close second
was the first ski descent from Mt. Everest in
2000. Better financial possibilities of past years
enabled more and more alpinists to join and
becomemembers of PZS's or other individual
expeditionsunder lessdemandingcriteria.On
the other hand less demanding criteriameant
lower possibility of success. This decrease in
mountaineering forces was also caused by
occurrence of professional mountain gui-
des. Namely, when climbing with a client the
undertaken level of risk is significantly lower
compared to the level of riskundertakenwhen
reaching for top peaks. The general mindset
of society is reflected in the mountaineering
movement as well. It displays clearly in expe-
ditions, in its positive and negative manner
Schoolingand/or assistance inschoolingof
Nepalimountain climbing professionals con-
tinues hand inhandwithHimalayanclimbing
ever since 1979.The goal has always been and
still continues tobe to educate asmanyNepali
as possible towork in their homemountains.
Tourism, in Nepal this means especially the
Himalaya tourism, should provide as much
income to indigene people as possible.
Next to our care for safety thiswas the pri-
mary goal for this training andwe continue to
follow this goal with great success to this day.
Tone Škarja